Here’s a few things to know about pine furniture:

- It doesn’t respond well to oil-based stains.

- Make sure you either have it waxed regularly or seal it with water-proof varnish, otherwise it may warp.

- the proper term for a lot of pine wood is ‘Deal’. This is a softwood group including pine, larch, fir, hemlock, and spruce.

Pine is well-liked among woodworkers because it is more pliant than hardwoods and therefore easier to work with. Each pine piece has a different look due to contrasting shades of light and dark. The quality of pine can vary; because it is so supple, it’s easy to knots to create holes that render a piece unworkable. The rustic look that the pine adds to a home continues to be popular with consumers despite pine being prone to warping.

Pine being a natural wood, it requires constant maintenance. Because it is a softwood and not a hardwood, it dents and scratches more easily that oak or mahogany does. However, do not fret if your piece has a few nicks, cracks, or shakes – this adds to a pine piece instead of detract from it. Any additional minor damage might actually add character to the piece. Avoid exposing your pine furniture to moisture and extreme temperatures; this will help preserve it.

Usually pine is painted or waxed following the construction of an item. If it was waxed, the natural color of the wood still shows, but it is glazed and shiny, giving it a look that is unique look. If it was painted, the hue of the wood mixes with the color of the paint, and the nearly-rustic charm of the wood remains. But pine still breathes no matter if you wax or paint it, and therefore is still susceptible to heat, humidity, etc.

Unfinished pine furniture, like other unfinished furniture made from softwoods, is dear to the hearts of many carpenters, amateur craftsman, or homeowners who make their own furniture because it is so supple. This makes it easy to carve, shape, and alter to fit your design ideas. Pine works well in any area of the home, bedroom, living room, kitchen, or dining room. Using unfinished pine furniture can accentuate a home that already has a countryside feel to it, especially if you use other softwoods in your home. It’s not uncommon for homeowners to use one of every type of softwood for different rooms, or even different rooms on different floors.

Used correctly, unfinished pine furniture can be an accessory to your home well worth the time and energy you invest in it.

After you have bought an unfinished furniture piece that you like, the next step is finishing it in the style and color of your choice. To do this, you will need to sand the piece, paint it, and finish it. (Note that ‘finish’ is here being used as a verb, not a noun.)

Sanding

Nicks, scratches, gashes, etc. in the wood have to be sanded out before you can paint it. Remember, never sand in the direction opposite the wood grain; always go with the grain when sanding. Make sure your sandpaper is coarse enough to remove the damage easily without inadvertently inflicting more. This usually means sanding with an 80-grit or 100-grit paper. If you scratch the wood with the coarse paper, sand those scratches out with finer grits, up to 150-grit or even 180-grit.

Sadly, knowing what grit to start with is only a first step. Knowing what grits to use after you use the starting grit only comes from experience. Do not forget that if flaws still show up in the wood after you finish it, you can remove the finish with a paint-and-varnish remover, or just a paint thinner if you only applied stain, and start over. There is no need to sand out the whole color from the stain, only the binder, which is the stuff that makes the stain stick.

Staining

You are able to see what the wood will look like with a finish applied  by simply wetting it with a liquid such as paint thinner. If the wood is not the right color or dark enough, you will have to stain it. If you are using quality hardwood (oak, mahogany, or walnut [cherry blotches]), avoid using a gel stain. If you are not finishing quality hardwood, a gel stain is your safest bet as it’s very good for reducing blotching in the wood.

No matter what stain you use, the application method is the same. Using any tool (like a brush or rag), apply a wet coat and wipe off the excess before it dries. Start by working on smaller surfaces like the legs or drawer fronts to get to know the drying time. To fix a stain that has already dried, wet it by applying more stain then wipe off the excess immediately.

Do not overlap stains – applying the stain to the same area twice may result in a difference in color.

Finishing

You need to finish the wood to protect it from stains, dirt, water damage, etc. You can apply the finish directly to the wood or to stained wood. It’s more attractive (and protective) to stain and finish separately rather than using a combination of stain and finish. That is just a stain with more binder in it than normal.

Types of Wood

Unfinished pine furniture is easy to sand, but also easy to damage. Do not use anything other than 180-grit paper in a random orbital sander. Unfinished oak furniture is not quite so easy to damage, but it still is readily damaged if you sand too roughly. The wood grain can become raised and difficult to sand down. Again, a random orbital sander works the best along with at least 150-grit paper.